Lawn Care 101

Aerating

This is the process of creating holes in your lawn to reduce compaction to allow for better absorption of water, air, and nutrients. In turn, your grass develops deeper, stronger roots. Aerating should be one of the first things done in the spring as soon as the soil has warmed up and is workable. Aerators can be rented from a hardware store or you can hire a contractor to aerate your lawn for you.

Cleaning

Rake up any old leaves, branches, loose thatch (old dead grass), and dead plant material before applying any fertilizer or pre-emergent herbicides.

Top Dressing

If you have poor-quality soil, you can top dress your lawn before reseeding. Topsoil is a decent option, but triple mix or Fafard's Viva Lawn Repair Mix will be better for improving your soil quality. Top dressing is also useful when you're overseeding to hold moisture for germination and to keep the seed from being blown away in the wind.

Overseeding

Overseeding is the process of applying additional seed to a pre-existing lawn, typically to thicken it or to fill in bare patches. Once soil temperatures are above 10°C (typically when air temperature is between 15°C and 20°C), it is warm enough to lay seed down and for it to germinate. When shopping for seed, pick one that suits the light conditions of your space (sunny, dense shade, or a mix). You can often find options labelled for low-maintenance or high traffic as well. To apply your seed, use a push or hand spreader for even application. Water deeply every day for 14-21 days to ensure germination.

Fertilizing

A spring application of fertilizer is important to give your lawn the kick start it needs to grow. You want to apply your fertilizer when the soil begins to warm and you see signs of new growth from your grass. When picking a fertilizer, look at the 3-number analysis on the bag that represents nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, respectively. For example, 20-5-10 means your fertilizer contains 20% nitrogen, 5% phosphorus, and 10% potassium. In spring, look for something with high nitrogen content and added iron to encourage growth and a deep green colour.

Grub Treatment

Damage from skunks and raccoons digging in your lawn, along with brown patches, is usually a sign of grubs. They live just below the surface of your lawn in the spring and fall, feeding on the roots of the grass. Small quantities of grubs may not create noticeable damage so it is still helpful to treat every year, as a significant number of grubs are Japanese Beetle larvae. Treatment now will reduce the number of Japanese Beetles you will have to deal with in the summer. If you treat with nematodes in the form of Nemaguard, wait until the soil temperature is above 10°C and water daily for at least 10 days after application. If you treat with BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) in the form of GrubBGon, temperature is less important, but an excess of water after application will wash the product away.

Mowing

Ideal lawn height is very subjective but, when you're deciding, consider that a shorter lawn has a decreased ability to produce energy. It is also more prone to stress, drying out in the summer, more likely to develop weeds from airborne seed, and more susceptible to pest damage like chinch bugs.

The recommended height for a good balance of health and appearance is 2.5-3" (6-8cm). Your first mow in the spring and last mow in the fall should be 1/2" higher than your standard height, and never cut off more than 1/3 of your lawn's height at any given time.

Watering

Water your lawn deeply 1-3 times a week in spring and fall rather than lightly every day to promote deep root growth. Not only is this less work for you, but it will also help keep chinch bugs at bay. Consider watering early in the morning to reduce evaporation, and don’t forget to follow any water restrictions set out by your town or region.

In the hottest months of the summer, let your lawn go dormant for the health of the grass by stopping your supplemental watering. Your lawn can survive for 4-6 weeks without adequate water. Letting your lawn rest means it is conserving energy and is less prone to summer pests and diseases. It will bounce right back as soon as the weather cools, so only water in summer during extreme drought or if you are trying to establish a new lawn. Plus, it reduces how often you have to mow as an added bonus.

Weeding

With most pesticides banned from the market, the best (and sometimes only) course of action is physical pulling. For best success, pull any weeds as soon as you see them to stop them from going to seed or spreading, and try to get as much of the root as you can. Some weeds are incredibly difficult to get rid of and will require you to continuously pull them as they appear in hopes you will eventually exhaust the root system. The longer you leave weeds, the more energy they will gather and the larger their root systems will grow. Frequent weeding will give you the best results.

Scouting

During the hot, dry months of summer, you may see damage appearing from chinch bugs as they thrive on heat and dry soil. It usually appears as dry yellow/tan patches in your lawn that quickly spread. A severe infestation can kill an entire lawn. Watering deeply in spring and fall, allowing dormancy in summer, raising your mower height, and aerating can help keep chinch bugs out of your lawn, or at least reduce the effects of them.

Seeding

Fall is one of the best times to reseed or sod your lawn, as the temperatures are more moderate for seed germination. Again, use a seed developed for your specific area (sun, shade, etc.), and remember to water your lawn daily and deeply for 2-3 weeks after applying seed.

Fertilizing

Use a fall fertilizer for your lawn to help it recover from the stress of summer and prepare for winter. This fertilizer will encourage root growth and energy storage that will give it a better, and even earlier, start in the spring.

Cleaning

To prep for the winter season, remove excess thatch from your lawn, as any more than 2.5 cm can be detrimental to its health. Also, clean up any fallen leaves and raise your mower height by at least 1/2" before you mow your lawn for the last time in the fall.

Grub Treatment

Apply another round of Nemaguard or GrubBGon while the soil is still warm to reduce the number of grubs that survive the winter. In late fall or early winter, the grubs will move deeper into the soil and the treatment will not be effective, so be sure to put it down before it gets too cold.